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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2003 17:54 
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First part of this topic is here:
http://www.skippari.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=105

wowbagger wrote:
does it works if i connect +12V with a poti to vee and vad-j [pin5] and -12v to vcc [pin3] ???

Just noticed this one. For some reason your post didn't bring this topic up so I haven't seen this before. :(

To VCC you need to connect +5V. And VADJ and VEE pins require a negative voltage.


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 Post subject: Software?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2004 21:08 
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Hi,

I also have come across an DMF5001N board, but need the software to drive it. I have the wiring prety well figured out, but as I am new to this, the software is still a littel beond me. Any help would be apreciated.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 19:42 
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How about LCDInfo ?


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 Post subject: Wiring..
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 21:01 
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Ok, I found LCDInfo. Looks like it will work, but now I have a question about the voltages. I'm obviously a little new in this area. This is the most complex piece of wiring I have tried myself so far, so any help would be appreciated.

Checking out the schematic posted earlier in the thread, it's little confusing. If I tracked all the posts correctly, I need -20v across VADJ (pin 4) and VEE (pin 5) through a pot, and +5v to VDD (pin 3). Do HALT (pin 10) and RST (Pin 11) need a constant +5v or will applying 5v cause a halt and reset? Or something like that?

Also, the posts mention needing a 3 ohm resistor for the backlight as 5v is too much for it, But where (pin #) would the resistor get wired in? Or does the backlight have a separate voltage supply somewhere else on the board?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 22:27 
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Location: Lappeenranta, Finland
This should be a proper DMF5001 schematic that I just made:

Image

I have a DMF5001-NY-LY-AIE display myself but I haven't wired it yet.

You need to feed -20v and +5v to the ends of a pot and connect the pot wiper to VADJ. -20v also goes to VEE. Supply +5v to HALT and RST always when you want the display to function normally. Grounding RST resets the display. Also grounding HALT enables it (which you don't want to normally happen).

Backlight has separate pads on the front side of the display marked as A and K. At least this is with my display with datecode 0309.

I used two ICL7662 chips is series fed from +12v to generate the negative voltage. It was about -21 to -22v this way. These were used with other DMF5001-NY-LY-AIE displays.

I don't remember the exact resistor value I used for the backlight.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 23:10 
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Henri
I just found a brand new one. I'll test this tomorrow and fix some pics if some want to take a look. I do have a question: My A and K is wired to pin 20 and 2. What do I do with those?

Picture:
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2004 10:37 
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As you can see from the schematic pin 2 is GND and pin 20 is not connected. So in your display the backlight has just been wired to the same cable with rest of the signals using the short wires. You can decide yourself if it's better to keep it that way or make it separate. What matters is that you connect the A and K pins like in the schematic I made.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2004 21:10 
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Henri wrote:
As you can see from the schematic pin 2 is GND and pin 20 is not connected. So in your display the backlight has just been wired to the same cable with rest of the signals using the short wires. You can decide yourself if it's better to keep it that way or make it separate. What matters is that you connect the A and K pins like in the schematic I made.


Alright! Thanks a lot. I make the separate like yu said. That way it's easier to solder (spelling?) it. Will take some pictures, but my camera is at work. Now I just need to find a -20V.

One more question: Where you wrote R1, connected to LED A, what does 3R??? mean? Finding parts will not be a problem.

Thanks again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2004 12:34 
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3R in the schematic means 3 ohms. Also I think that value was not tested in practice so you might want to do some testing yourself. You probably also want something that can handle more power than a basic 1/4 watt resistor.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2004 20:22 
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 16:01
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Location: Sweden
Update: Today I made the cables and checked the connections. This will do, I guess. Then I calles ELFA (biggest electronic-dealer in Sweden) and asked about a trafo with 5 and 20 volts. They didn't have one, but could fix a bag of stuff to make it myself. I said no thanks. My collegues (?) said it will be no problemo fixing a 24V but we'll see.

Pics:
Here is all the cables soldered together and tubed. The red cable will be connected to ground, blue is +5V, black to -20V and green to the contrast pot.
Image

Tucked away. Well, sort of. As fare as the tube could stretch.
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2004 15:21 
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What did you use to get -20v?


Also what are the chances of use -12v or even -0v insted of -20v ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2004 11:01 
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I don't know what Hellraiser used but here's what I did:

I used two ICL7662 chips is series fed from +12v to generate the negative voltage. It was about -21 to -22v this way. These were used with other DMF5001-NY-LY-AIE displays.

-12v won't work and you'll need about -20v to see anything on the display.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2004 15:23 
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Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2004 15:14
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Do you have a diagram for wiring the two ICL7662's in series


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 21:19 
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I remember there was a diagram explaining this in the ICL7662 datasheet.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:29 
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Maybe you can contact Blaze Display(www.blazedisplay.com). We buy LCD Displays, LCD Modules, LCD Panels from them. They are a manufacturer in China.


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