Ooooh, a nice clean topic to post my crap in

Great you've made it Henri!
Let's start by posting the info I've gathered so far. If anyone can knows more, please tell us as we LCD nutcases/programmers are always hungry for more!
In our quest for easy to use, not to expensive, and not to hard to get colour LCDs there's finaly some light at the end of the tunnel. The Nokia phones housing the displays we're talking about are the 6610 and 7210. Both phones have a 128x128 display capable of showing 4096 colours. The display that is being used is either an Epson model or a Philips model. Although they are being used in the same phone, they have a different controller. The phone's firmware detects which display is attached to it (the displays have a hardwired ID).
The Philips one uses the PCF8833 and the Epson a S1D15G00 compatible one (or so it seems). For datasheets, see henri's post above. So far so good, you'd think both displays are good to use. But... there seem to be a couple of problems with the Epson one. It's internal chargepump responds to light if the controller is not covered. This will cause the display to go 'on' as if there is to much voltage applied.
Secondly, the Epson one is very picky when it comes to voltages and contrast. It's very hard to get the right contrast with a specific voltage. Both problems can be solved, but as the Philips hasn't got either of problem, why bother if you can avoid it. Also the documentation of Philips is better in my opinion. My advice is to use the Philips one and ignore the other.
One more very important point is wether or not it's easy to solder. Looking at this, the Philips one wins bigtime as the display has 11 HUGE goldplated contacts (compared to usuall GSM parts

). Look at the photo and you know what I mean:
There's also a second thing to keep in mind. The Philips one has a brown orange flexible PCB while the Epson's PCB colour is green. This is visible on the photo below (never mind the red cross I put over it

):
Also this will take some extra hardware. You won't be able to just plug it into your parallel port. The display works best at 2,8V, the backlight at 6V and the parallel port with 5V signals. I've been thinking of taking a LM1117-ADJ low-drop voltage regulator to generate the 2,8V and a 74LVC4245 as level shifter. I don't know how easy the shifter can be gotten, but if that's to hard, I'm gonna try the 74LV245. And maybe the backlight will work fine at 5V, so no additional voltage regulation will be needed. Time will tell
Please note that all this is just research so far, both henri and I haven't gotten around to actually test it yet! Most of the 'problem information' was figured out by some nice ppl on the Yampp discussion boards. They deserve credit for the initial discovery of the usability of these displays if I'm not mistaken..