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I was thinking about getting one of these from eBay, but the PCB size is a real problem for the application I had in mind. I thought then that maybe I could unsolder the 64 pins below the display, carefully bend it so that it would be at a right angle (or thereabouts) with the PCB, and solder a ribbon cable to the pins I unsoldered.

The soldering itself should not be a huge problem (still some work, though), but I wonder if the thinner pins above the display can take this without breaking. Those who have this display, what do you think - does it look like the pins have enough length between the display and the solder point that this could be possible? Or has anyone by any chance already tried something like this?

If someone has the datasheet, could you please check how much power it needs? (Thinking of building a USB bus-powered display, which means 500 mA max. - the GU128x32-800 at 450 mA (typ) would be fine for that, but haven't seen any specs for the -311.)

Is there any good source for graphical VFD's other than eBay? I would very much prefer to buy something that fits my project directly, such as an -800 series display, but don't see them for sale much.

An insane idea, would be great if you pulled it off . But i doubt the top row will hold it.
Power requirements as stated in the specsheet; 950 - 1300mA.
I have bought a VFD from Noritake in the UK about a year ago, but it's quite expensive. You could also put some wanted ads on the LCD / modding forums.

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My Plexeon-Insane LCD!-Or this one!-LCDinfo-LCDStudio

I have heard someone doing this kind thing for a Noritake character VFD and it worked.

It might cause some whining noise with the longer wires or then maybe not. I don't think the top pins would have trouble with bending them but if not done carefully the glass and vacuum inside might not like it. Also after bending the edge of the PCB will be about at the same level as the front of the glass, would that be a problem ?

Power reqs: Ouch, so much for any hopes of powering it from USB. I wonder what makes it need so much more power than the corresponding -800 series display... then again the specs I have for the 800 could be wrong (and I don't like the "typ" notion anyway - typical for what? Production batch? Usual brightness and amount of lit pixels?) Of course it's no big problem to add a cheap power supply, but it won't be such a nice and clean design as with just the VFD, an FT245, and the parts needed to connect the two.

About bending: Thanks for the comments, I guess I might try it then (just one way to find out if it can really be done, right?) I don't think the edge of the PCB would be a problem, as I would want to put some kind of a filter in front of it anyway.

Still, if anyone has an extra GU128x32-800 for sale or knows where to buy them for a reasonable price, let me know...

As soon as I got my displays I thought of doing the same thing, though I was wanting to desolder it entirely. Your idea sounds much better, but there's a problem. The screen is held to the controller board by doubled sided foam tape (the kind that says it's suppost to be permanent and can take 150 degrees). I did manage to desolder the screen from the card. I also managed to remove it from the card with a razor blade and an EXTREME amount of caution. I was able to remove the display without any damage.

I think now that I have done so, I'll resolder the top 135 pins and bend them as you have suggested. My plan is to make a sheet metal case for the card and some other hardware, and attach the display to an external reinforced section of the case that is bent to the right angle using some new foam tape (the same kind as was on there). You can get the foam tape from Radio Shack.

BTW, You'll need to desolder all of the pins before attempting to remove the display from the board if you want the best shot at not damaging any pins or the display.

Also, if you like, I can post pics of the screen removed from the card, though I am new to this forum and would need help in how to post the pics.

On a second display of mine I have sucessfully desoldered the bottom 64 pins and lifted the screen from the board. The top row of pins is more than strong enough to hold the weight of the screen, but I'm still going to incorporate additional support in the frame I'm building. To remove the screen from the board I used three razor blades. I pushed each one under where the pins where VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY until they all were fully inserted. Then I used one of my soldering tools (a flat head screwdriver would work too) to pry under each blade until the screen lifted. There are two strips of adhesive (not the double sided foam tape I thought before) which are very strong. The razor blades help seperate the adhesive and distribute the force of the lever (soldering tool, flat head screwdriver, etc...), otherwise the glass will crack. I must emphasize the care take not to crack the glass. When I run wires from the pins to the board I will post some pics (again I'd still need help on how to post the pics since I'm new to the forum). There shouldn't be any issues with the length of the wires affecting the performance of the screen.

I really want to see that . I can host the pics for you if don't have room for it

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My Plexeon-Insane LCD!-Or this one!-LCDinfo-LCDStudio

Yes pictures would be great. Unfortunately it's not currently possible to upload pics here in the forum but instead they need to be hosted somewhere else and then just linked from the forum post. I can also host the pictures if you send them to me.

Sounds great. I'm about half way finished. Progress is a little slow cause we're going through a major inspection at work this week. When I finish I'll get with you guys about where to send the pics.

I've been trying to get some pics of what I've done with my display. For some reason the amount of light being put out causes my pics to be blurry. If I turn down the gamma, everything is too dark. If I use a flash, there is too much glare off of the glass. Eventually I'll get something to work and show you how it turned out.

Yes VFD's are hard to capture Use a fixed focus point and macro setting and a solid base (tripod). C'mon with them pix!

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My Plexeon-Insane LCD!-Or this one!-LCDinfo-LCDStudio

Hey guys I am new to this forum and new to VFDs for the most part. I picked up 2 of these GU128x32-311 off ebay since they seemed pretty cheap. Was wondering, how am I running this if I just wanted to use it exactly as it was? Which cables for connection / power would I use.

I read a lot of serial connections and what not, am I supposed to convert a cable for that through the 10-pin connection? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am just trying to run something like Liquid-MP3

-Ed

Here's the Noritake 311 wiring scheme for both Liquid and LCDinfo. For the parallel port that is.

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My Plexeon-Insane LCD!-Or this one!-LCDinfo-LCDStudio

I saw that schematic, but where is that on the LCD? Is it the larger connection?? Do I have to solder somewhere??

It concerns the 20 pin IDC header. Either solder or do it the neat way; a connector with flatcable.
On a side note you did notice the big 34 pin connector being a dummy didn't you

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My Plexeon-Insane LCD!-Or this one!-LCDinfo-LCDStudio