LCDInfo.com

YES! it is working. Thank you very much Henri.

No flicker, no cursor and the VFD is updating perfect. The T20a has become a very attractive panel indeed.

The next challenge would be to control the cursor, and make it useful in a spectrum, or to put special charactes on the display

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-= Torro =-

Sorry for the newbish question, but how would I hook this display to my PC? I found this VFD and began searching for a method to display info on it from my computer and found this program. Perhaps someone can point me to some info that searches did not find.

I see the vfdworld website where the wiring info was has disappeared.

Connections to parallel port:
VFD D0-D7 pins to parallel port D0-D7 (2-9) pins.
VFD WR pin to parallel port Strobe (1) pin.
VFD CS pin to parallel port Init (16) pin.
Ground wire from VFD GND to LPT GND (18-25).

Then +5V and GND to the power pins of the vfd.

I don't have any datasheets to check now so I don't have the pin numbers for the VFD pins, only the pin names out of my memory.

There is also a serial mode driver that I haven't remembered putting here before: http://www.skippari.net/lcd/alpha/plugi ... driver.dll

I don't know if anyone's still watching this thread. I too bought one of these sweet T20A VFD's when a huge batch of them hit ebay about a year ago. I have the technical manuals as well as a lot of other information compiled from various sources over time. I do have documentation on control codes and wait times etc, as well as information about font switching and whatnot. If anyone still needs that stuff holler.

and HENRI - If you're feeling generous and want to toy with a driver that can do spectrums etc, I have the datasheet on individual pixel addressing on the 5x7 characters I'd be glad to pass on.

I DO HAVE ONE QUESTION THOUGH -

What is everyone using for the 16 pin LCD connectors (other than buying the Noritake pre-fab cable)? I haven't been able to find anything close enough to fit and I can't solder the pins directly.

Also to whom ever was getting the garbage in garbage out when connected via serial, if that's a T20A model, you need a CMOS/TTL converter inline to prevent that (unless you've already got one in which case just ignore that)

Not sure what kind of connector the T20 has but i assume the same as the T23; 2x8 IDC shrouded headers.

http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/IDCC16.shtml
http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/DSUBSCM25.shtml
http://www.futurlec.com/Cable.shtml

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My Plexeon-Insane LCD!-Or this one!-LCDinfo-LCDStudio

Thanks so much! My order is on the way...

I was able to find the pieces here and there, but all of them wanted to add $15 shipping on two dollar orders, and their prices were a lot higher than this place anyway. I think I found a new favorite online retailer.

Hmmm...so I guess I need to re-neg on my previous post. I put in an order with that place adn they sent me an email telling me my credit card was declined and that the shrouded headers I need were on backorder. I called my bank and found out their verification system was down for a couple hours. I emailed them back and told them the card should work, and offered to give them another one if there was a problem. Also asked them to let me know when they could get the headers. I never heard back from them.

Anyone know another source for these things?

I've found them exactly three places on the internet, one of which is a BASIC stamp geek site for noobs that wants like $5+ per piece and outrageous shipping prices... I got this project and most of the software compiled, but can't say whether or not it's working since I can't wire the frickin thing up...

try mouser.com, ive ordered from them before, Im in San Diego, ca always next day deliever for me.

Check that page 911 in the catalog.


http://www.mouser.com/catalog/622/911.pdf

Its probably the B type your looking for, but I dont know for sure, make sure the measurements for the pins and stuff is the same. But the connector should be around that section in the catalog for sure.

Hi,
I have this exact same LCD - and have been trying to get it to work from linux for my MythTV box.

Would you mind emailing me the source code for this driver? Seeing how you got it working under windows would assist me a ton in writing the code for linux.

Thanks!

p.s. - have you ever experimented with http://forum.schijf.org/viewtopic.php?t=239 before?

Has anyone out there played with CU20025SCPB-T20A-05 and have you got any tips
The driver is defo working at some level , the brightness control is working but i cant get any more than

On starting info


The goodbye


And the jumpers in the top left corner , any help on which ones should and should not be bridged would be good.


Just off to check my wiring again

the jumpers are for serial speed and parity selection.
the settings are listed in the datasheet you linked, under the section PCB Jumpers.
I ve set my t23a to 19200 no parity.

But I cant get my T23A to work with lcdinfo:(
its on a serial connection, 19200, no parity and it works with hyperterminal or lcd smartie.
a "Testing" string comes out as "Tsng" on the display, like something is wrong with the connection
do you have a parity=on setting hardcoded into the driver? as I cant find such a setting in the config menus

Yes I think it's hardcoded for even parity and one stop bit as that seems to have been the default for the noritake vfd.

Is there any chance of releasing a slightly updated version of this driver, that lets people choose which character set they want to use? It's got two - "International", which is 18h, and "Katakana" which is 19h. Katakana's a LOT more useful, since it actually has bargraph components, and other useful shapes. (see: http://www.vfdworld.com/techdocs/Norita ... 20_VFD.pdf )

I'd do it myself, if I knew coding.

As a side note, if you want to actually do this manually, you need to do a software reset, which is 1bh + 45h, and then go from there calling 19h (and whatever brightness commands you wish..)