LCDInfo.com

Hi, Ive written a quick VB app to load any image scale to 101x80 then output as the correct (256)RGB format, I'll link if theres interest
I think the format is RRGGBBB or RRRGGGBB i will have a look when i get in.

Yes it could be very useful, although the main issue is not converting to RAW format (it can be done with several programs), but to use the T68 pallete, so the colors are not shifted.

Thank you for your offer.

Regards,
Cex.

ahh i see, well i just converted your picture of the sheep to raw then hex compared with your image.raw file, they was identical so i guess i have the same RGB format but am using getpixel api to grab the current pixel of any res image and of any colour depth and write that away so prob not close to the T68 pallete but its looks pretty well all the same, it would be nice to swap each pixel out for the closest T68 one, maybe a mod is in order...

Hi everyone; just to say I managed to get a T68 R3A (0x72) running with an Atmega128 driving it at 400khz.
Two things of note :
+ The colors for the 256 'palette' are not random, they are in fact encoded 3:3:2 on eight bits, exactly as the dump shows:

The 08 (bits) 03 (red) 03 (green) 02 (blue) is the interesting bit here.

+ The pins as described there : http://sandiding.tripod.com/lcdt68.html are WRONG. Pin 1 (VCC) is at the left, when looking at the screen from the front.
IF you try it the other way, you risk damaging the LED to the left by putting VCC in it. And that is also a sign : if the LEFT led is much brighter than the right and you can't talk to the screen, unplug and try the other way !

Otherwise, my R3A is S-4595, and I'd love to find a datasheet. The other chipset looks very nice, with hardware scrolling and all that.. Even at 400Khz here the display is clearly on the slow side...

Also, thanks to the few participants for their data, it's been really fun!

Ohk and about the backlight, what is your best solution ? Here I have 240R on each lines, with the 3.3V vcc as source.. but I think I should get a bit more brightness...
Anyone has a suggestion ?

Hi Buze, nice work

I found a few errors with the schematic in CEX zip aswell the leds rails are back to front compared to the diagram here http://sandiding.tripod.com/lcdt68.html

i found my backlite leds were very dim using two 22ohm resistors at 2.8v and not much better at 3.2, so i changed for one 50ohm pot still running at 3.2v now there nice and bright, keep an eye on there current the left one did start to get warm until i turned the pot a few turns down
also careful with 3.2v into the lcd i think its the max

Thanks, I switched to 22R and it's better already.

Here's a photo of my breadboard. I use a nifty phillips i2c switch; it allows to split the bus AND does the level conversion for free, so the front is in 5V, and the back is run in 3.3, with the LCD

sorry the screen is fuzzy, I was shooting the board itself

http://oomz.net/scaled/IMG_2556.JPG

Hello

I'm having trouble downloading the file with the schematics posted by CEX
The link is http://www.woofiles.com/dl-25557-MMYSLQyP-T68LCD11.zip# and it is not working. The file name is T68LCD_11.zip

Any help??

Thanks

Oh yeah, it doesnt work for me anymore either, just times out, weird anyway, i uploaded it for you.
http://www.aimee.cc/danceheaven/files/l ... LCD_11.zip

Thanks a lot

I'll make a prototype this week

I was looking at the schematics and testing my display so I noticed that ground must be connected to pin 7 (in the pdf numbering, but numbers are inverted like AJ said) and R5 connected to pin 8

Also, I'm a little confused:


I assume that I must connect pin 14 to the anode of D2.

Also, antoher doubt: how do you connect wires to the display connector? is it possible to solder wires to the plastic strip without melting it?

Thanks to AJ and to CEX for posting and sending the files

MJ

That strip of film has metal pads; it's in fact very easy to solder on!

yup as Buze said, its very easy to solder onto, just use some thin solder and put a little on each to wet the pad, depending on the core size of the wire your going to attached you probably wont need that much solder atall, just take your time and try not to get any bridges between the pads or burn through the plastic, a lower temp could be useful if you have a variable temp iron

Also I think CEX must have corrrected hes PDF already as mine works fine wtih ACK as contained within that zip plus it looks correct hope this helps

Hello,

I corrected the schematic on version 1.1 of ZIP file. The pinning is correct as I said that the LED pads are those with thicker tracks (If you look the display from the back with contacts in the bottom, the three pins at the left are LEDs, and the rightmost one is VCC).
Anyway, the only thing that may be wrong in the schematic are the LED's limiting resistor that provide a very dim backlit, but I needed them that way for a night application. You can put lower values for brighter backlit, but take into account that 10-20 mA is the maximum.

Regarding the pads, the best solution is to solder wires directly. they are on a flexible PCB (not plastic) and the pitch is perfect for standard ribbon cable.

Hope this helps.

Is somebody test T68 with text ?