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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 21:05 
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Location: Lappeenranta, Finland
row_perfect wrote:
I am very interested in starting a project with exactly the same display (crystalfontz). I was thinking or programming it from a PIC. Do you know of any good resources for programming it?

I don't have any experience programming KS0108 with PIC or any other micro controller but I guess that the code in my program could be converted for PIC also ? I have a PIC16F84A and 16F877 here waiting for some free time to interface them to a lcd.

Quote:
Also I was wondering if it would be easier to debug things using a scope if it was serially driven. I've seen rumours that this will work: (Stamp Stretcher)
http://www.robotstore.com/catalog/display.asp?pid=27
but it seems a bit overkill. Do you know of any other serial to parallel converters?

All advice/info gratefully received!

I don't know of other converters but maybe you could do one yourself using a PIC ? Just an idea.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 21:20 
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i was planning on using some software that i found, the name escapes me at the moment, but it appears to be able to communicate with the same controller that is on the CFAG12864B. i will be using the scematic drawing above and that is about it. i haven't been able to try it yet but it appears that it should work. i will try to find the name of that software. try searching in google for CFAG12864B. then look for anything that relates to a download.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2002 11:32 
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I just saw this in the Crystalfontz forum:
http://www.crystalfontz.com/forum/showt ... eadid=1102

CF Tech wrote:
connect a 10K pot between Vcc (=+5v supplied by you) and Vee (= -voltage generated by the LCD from your +5v). Connect the wiper to Vo. See the drawing on page 8 of the data sheet.


In the schematic I draw the pot is connected between GND and Vee instead of Vcc and Vee. If the pot connected between GND and Vee doesn't give you enough contrast voltage you should connect it like said in the Crystalfontz forum.

If someone notices anything else that could be done better/differently just post it here.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2002 7:26 
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ok ok now before i go and buy all of the necessary items what software am i going to use?? the inverter is not cheap and will have to be shipped, my local electronics store dosen't know what i'm talking about and can't help me. i just wan't to make sure that this is going to be worth my time and effort.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2002 19:14 
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computergeekguy wrote:
ok ok now before i go and buy all of the necessary items what software am i going to use??

I haven't seen other software for KS0108 except my LCDInfo and the lcd test program.
http://www.skippari.net/lcd/lcdinfo.html

LCD Studio should be able to support KS0108 too when someone creates a driver. Couple months ago I programmed a working KS0108 driver for LCD Studio but I haven't had time to finish it.

And the maker of Liquid-MP3 is working on KS0108 support but I'm not sure when it's going to be ready.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2002 7:05 
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ok now i have all of the parts and i am wondering is there anyway that i could draw the +5v from the parallel port? a guy at my locak electronics store said that this is possible, especially for the low amperage needed. i looked on the internet and cannot find any details as to how and what pins. other than that my soldering iron now hovers over this project.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2002 16:41 
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computergeekguy wrote:
ok now i have all of the parts and i am wondering is there anyway that i could draw the +5v from the parallel port?

You might be able to get enough amperage to drive the lcd without backlight but I've never tried this. I would recommend getting the power from the PSU.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2002 19:38 
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Location: Lisboa , Portugal
Believe me DON'T do that it's very risky , the paralel port can supply the 5 volts via a pin that it is on a high logic state (dont ask me how to do it without specifc software) , the olny problem is the very low curente intensity suported by it , but this coul mean a great idea by using some passthroug electronics on the paralel port (by using it to pull a transistor high) to drive a relay and conect the lcd only when the program is executed , but of course the power for the display and the relay is provided by the PC power sulply or an external power suply in my case , its a feature that wouldn't be bad idea to study it to work , since is possible to drive almost anithing with a transistor and a proper relay :wink: :wink:

SAmtech


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2002 4:02 
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ok i don't think that i will then i don't want to fry my mobo. thanks now i have to put it together.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 8:05 
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=< i spent all day modifying the external box and soldering but to my dismay i broke the LCD. i was lucky thought to see it work in its final hour i even snapped a picture. but pin #3 (contrast) lost the soldering point so now all i have to look at is a blank LCD. the characters are there but the voltage needed to see them is not. i tried in vain to connect the eched circuit off of it but it doesn't appear to be working. any suggestions???? i would greatly appriceate them thanks to everyone who has helped me.

P.S. how do i post a picture. i think that i accidently turned off that feature.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 8:13 
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[img][D:/it worked.jpg]

i don't know if it will take the picture above. i am still MAD :evil: [/img]

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:08 
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Bad luck with the display. :(

I don't think your display is finally broken yet. It should be possible to solder the wire to some other place on the PCB.

Could you post some close ups of the display PCB and I could try to trace a place where you could solder a wire.


P.S. To post pictures you need to have them uploaded to your own web space and then put the URL between the img tags.
But you could also email the pictures to me and I'll upload them to this server.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 20:43 
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Location: Lisboa , Portugal
Yap , realy bad luck , one advice try to get a lower power Soldering iron , most off the pin's that come out like it hapened to you are caused by excesiv heat from the soldering iron.

Has to repair the display , do as Henry said , but with a thin soldering tip and a lower potence soldering iron an'd i'll see that it will Work like a charm :wink:

Good luck

SAmtech


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 8:01 
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WEEEEEEEEEEEE IT WORKS. I expsed a curcuit leading off of the broken pin and it works. thanks all of the help. hopefully henri can put up the pictures that i e-mailed him. :D :) 8) :wink: :lol: :!:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 16:09 
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computergeekguy wrote:
hopefully henri can put up the pictures that i e-mailed him.

Sure I'll put them up but the problem is that I got the mail but there weren't any pictures with it. Could you send them again ?


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